Anseong | A City Steeped In Tradition
Life in Anseong moves at a pretty sleepy place. Just the way I like it. I went during the summer a couple years ago to research a piece for SEOUL magazine. Relying on public transportation can be a little time consuming so I recommend having your own set of wheels to make the most of it. Some points of interest include the Buddhist retreats of Seongnamsa and Cheongnyongsa Temple in the south, the well preserved Mirinae Holy Site bordering the north, and the memorable performances at Namsadang Performing Arts Center. Gupodong Catholic Church, an interesting architectural structure combining eastern and western design, is also beautiful. Whatever the agenda, a journey through this idyllic city, tucked deep in the heart of Gyeonggi-do, will have you coming away a little more schooled in Korea’s deep historical roots.
A note on the performances at Namsadang Performing Arts Center:
Namsadang was Korea’s first performance troupe. During the later years of the Joseon Dynasty the Namsadang performers would visit marketplaces and villages to dance, sing and perform. The entertainment features the skillful acts of beona nori (plate-spinning), deotboegi (mask dancing), eoreum (tightrope walking), salpan (acrobatic tumbling), deolmi (puppet show), and pungmul nori (traditional Korean folk music). The folks of Anseong established The Namsadang Performing Arts Center as a means to keep the ritual alive. The highlight of the program is the tightrope dancing. The act opens the show and continues for the better part of forty minutes. When I was there, the performer entertained the audience with some incredible stunts, all the while carrying on some playful banter with another member of the troupe. Pretty incredible to see it so close up.
Contact the center at (02) 6012-9630 or through Ticket Link (1588-7890) for more information. For info on the city give the Anseong Tourism Information Center a ring (031) 677-1330. Or visit the official website.
Be sure and include a trip to either Seongnamsa and Cheongnyongsa if you can. It was at Cheongnyongsa where the Namsadangpae spent their winters as they travelled throughout the nation performing for villagers. The picturesque grounds of Seongnamsa Temple, which was founded in 680 during King Munmu’s reign of the Shilla Dynasty, were once home to many Seon priests who sought solace in its natural splendor. The trek up is rather demanding, but the views that await you from the top are pretty breathtaking.
Getting There: The commute is pretty straightforward. Simply take Subway Line 3 to either Express Bus Terminal or Nambu Bus Terminal and grab the bus headed for Anseong. At the time of this article, the fare was 4,000 won. Those preferring to drive can hop on the Jungbu Expressway, National Road No. 35 or the newly opened Gyeongbu Expressway, National Road No. 38. Having your own transportation is advisable as many of the sites are a little remote.
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